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How to Configure Philips Hue Motion Sensor

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The latest accessory to join the Philips Hue line is a motion sensor that can not only turn on your lights when you walk into a room, but can also activate certain scenes depending on the time of day. Here’s how to set it up and have motion-activated lights ready to go in just a few minutes.





 

What Makes the Hue Motion Sensor Better than Other Motion Sensors


While you can use third-party motion sensors with your Philips Hue lights using various services, the Hue Motion Sensor ($40) makes it easier to turn your Hue bulbs into motion lights in your house. Plus, the Hue Motion Sensor can do way more than any other third-party motion sensor: it can sense whether it’s night out, and turn your lights on more dimly, for example. Or, if there’s a lot of sunlight in the room, it can automatically disable the motion-sensing lights so it isn’t being redundant.

You can also create different scenes within the Philips Hue app and assign them to certain time frames throughout the day. The motion sensor can even turn off lights after a certain amount of time has passed when no motion has been detected, from as little as one minute all the way to one hour.

 

How to Set Up the Hue Motion Sensor

To set up the Hue Motion Sensor, start by opening up the Philips Hue app on your phone and tapping on the settings gear icon in the top-left corner of the screen.


On the next screen, tap on “Accessory setup”.


Tap on the round plus button down in the bottom-right corner.


Select “Hue motion sensor”.


Next, remove the plastic strip from the Hue Motion Sensor unit. It requires a bit of a tug, so don’t be afraid to pull hard. Once that’s done, wait a few seconds and confirm that you see an orange LED slowly flashing. If so, tap on “LED blinking” at the bottom.


Select which room you want associated with the motion sensor. You can actually select more than one room, but there’s a maximum of three rooms in order to keep down connection and latency issues.


Next, you’ll place the sensor wherever you want in the room, preferably so that the motion sensor portion has a wide view of the room, especially the entrance. The motion sensor is freestanding, but it comes with a wall mount if you want to keep it off the floor or tables. Once you’ve found a place for it, tap on “Got it” in the app.


On the next screen, it will explain the default settings that the motion sensor will use. Don’t worry, though, as you can easily change these once you have motion sensor set up. Tap “Done” at the bottom.


Your Hue Motion Sensor will now appear in the list of other Hue accessories that you have. On this screen, you can also quickly enable or disable the motion sensor at any time by tapping on the toggle switch to the right.


Tapping on the motion sensor in the list will bring up the settings that you can customize. On that screen, you can choose which rooms you want the motion sensor to work in, as well as how the lights turn on based on the time of day. So if it’s nighttime, the motion sensor will turn your lights on to a dim setting, compared to other times where you can have the lights turn on full blast.







The Hue Motion Sensor even has an ambient light sensor, so it knows if it’s already bright enough in the room so it doesn’t needlessly turn lights on. And of course, you can also choose how long lights remain on after it begins detecting no more motion in a room.

Unfortunately, you can’t simply just tell the motion sensor to turn on lights. Instead, you have to assign it a scene, so if you haven’t created scenes in the Philips Hue app, you’ll need to do that first.



The Hue Motion Sensor is by far one of the best motion sensors you could possibly use with your Hue lights. As we mentioned earlier, you can use third-party motion sensors and have them communicate with your Hue lights through SmartThings or IFTTT, but the functionality is nowhere near as good as the Hue Motion Sensor.

Unfortunately, it’s not HomeKit-compatible, so you can’t control other smarthome devices with it, like turning on a smart outlet when motion is detected. This obviously isn’t a big deal for Android users, but Apple users might be disappointed in the lack of HomeKit support.

Other than that, the Hue Motion Sensor does way more than I originally expected, so you can be sure to get a lot of use out of it, especially in rooms where a light switch may not be in the most convenient location.

If you have not setup your philips hue lights yet then go through detailed guide How to Set Up Philips Hue Lights With The Latest Hue App to configure it.

How to Configure Your Philips Hue Lights With the Latest Hue App

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Philips Hue is a really cool Wi-Fi-enabled lighting system that allows you to turn on and off your lights right from your smartphone (or from other smarthome-controlling devices, like the Amazon Echo). It’s one of the first steps in turning your house into a smarthome of the future. Here’s how to set up your Philips Hue lights using the new Philips Hue app.


If you would like to set up Philips Motion Sensor, read our detailed guide How to Configure Philips Hue Motion Sensor to control Philips hue lights.






Hue has been around for a while, but they recently released a brand new app, with an all-new interface that makes it a bit easier to manage and control your smart bulbs. There can be a bit of a learning curve compared to the old app (which you can still download for iOS and Android), but once you get the basics down, you might come to find that it’s a lot better than the old Hue app. (It is, however, missing a few features from the old app, which we’ll discuss later in this guide).

You can grab the new app here, and if you already have your bulbs set up, skip down to the setup section of this guide. If you’re new to Hue, let’s talk about what Hue can do, and what you get in the box.

 

What Is Philips Hue?

Lighting has advanced dramatically over the last few years, especially with the introduction of LED bulbs, which use way less power, last longer, and cost less to operate in the long run.

However, smart lighting takes an even further step forward, and Philips is leading the way with its Hue lineup of smart bulbs. These are light bulbs that work with any standard light socket that you already have in your house’s light fixtures, but they have some added internal components that allow them to be controlled wirelessly from your smartphone.



There are a handful of different Hue light bulbs that Philips offers. Its most popular, though, is the $199 Hue White and Color Starter Kit, which comes with the required Hue Bridge, as well as three Hue light bulbs that can change colors and do all sorts of neat stuff. You can also get the cheaper $79 Hue White Starter Kit, which comes with the Hue Bridge and two Hue White bulbs, which are nothing more than just dimmable soft white bulbs.

Since the bulbs can’t directly connect to your home’s Wi-Fi network, the Hue Bridge is a hub that acts as the middleman of sorts. Your light bulbs connect to the hub, and the hub connects to your router.

This involves a bit more setup than what you might have originally anticipated, but it’s actually very easy to set up Philips Hue lights. Here’s what you’ll need to do in order to get it all up and running.

 

How to Set Up Your Philips Hue Lights

When you unbox your Philips Hue lights, you’ll get a Hue Bridge, a power adapter, an ethernet cable, and either two or three light bulbs, depending on which starter kit you bought. The Hue White and Color starter kit comes with three bulbs, while the Hue White starter kit comes with two bulbs.


Start by screwing in the light bulbs into the light fixtures that you want to control wirelessly, and be sure to turn the power on for these light fixtures. The Philips Hue bulbs will automatically turn on, letting you know that they’re working properly and are ready to be paired to the Hue Bridge.


Next, plug in the Hue Bridge by connecting the power adapter to the Bridge and the other end into an available outlet. After that, connect one end of the ethernet cable to the Bridge and the other end into an available ethernet port on the back of your router. You have to plug it directly into your router with an ethernet cable–the Hue Bridge does not have Wi-Fi built in; instead, it uses the Wi-Fi in your router.

Wait for all four lights to light up on the Hue Bridge, and once that happens, you can begin the setup process.


Next, download the new Philips Hue Gen 2 app for iOS or Android. Be aware that there are a lot of third-party Philips Hue apps available, so if you search for it in the app store, you’ll want to make sure to download the official one in order to set up your lights at first.


After you open up the app, it will automatically begin searching for a Hue Bridge.


Once it has found yours, tap on “Set up”.


Next, press the push-link button on your Hue Bridge. It will be the big round button in the center.


Once it’s connected, tap on “Accept”.


Next, it’s time to set up HomeKit and Siri if you’re an iOS user. Tap on “Pair bridge” at the bottom.


Tap on “My home” at the bottom and give your home a name. “Home” usually works just fine in this case. Tap on “Create home” when finished.


Next, you’ll need to scan the accessory setup code that’s on the back of the Hue Bridge. Hold your phone up to this code and it will detect it automatically.


It’s now time for your Hue Bridge to detect all of your Hue light bulbs, so tap on the “+” icon in the bottom-right corner.


Tap on “Search”.


It will take several minutes for it to find all of your bulbs, but when it’s done, it will tell you how many bulbs it found near the top. If it doesn’t find all of your bulbs, you can tap on the “+” icon again and then select “Add serial number” to manually add the bulbs to your setup. Don’t worry, this is a fairly common necessity.


Once all of your Hue bulbs are found, the app will prompt you to group them into rooms for easier control. So tap on the “+” icon in the bottom-right corner on the next page.


Tap on the text box at the top and give your first room a name.


Then tap on “Room type” and select the type of room it is.


Next, under “Light selection”, check or uncheck any bulbs that you don’t want associated with this room, and then tap “Save” in the top-right corner.

Unfortunately, this part is pretty poorly designed: If you’re using new bulbs, they’ll all have generic names like “Hue white lamp 1”, and you won’t necessarily know which one is which. Go ahead and guess for now–if it’s wrong, you can go back into the settings and change it. We’ll discuss this later in the guide.


Add more rooms if you want by tapping on the “+” icon at the bottom. Otherwise, tap on “Next” in the top-right corner.







You’re all done with the initial setup process. Tap on “Let’s go” to begin controlling your Hue lights.


How to Rename and Regroup Your Hue Lights

Now is the time to make changes if any of your bulbs are in the wrong room. If so, tap on the settings gear icon in the top-left corner from the main control screen.


First, select “Light setup”.

On this page, you can tap on any bulb’s name to see it flash. Then, tap on the small circular “i” icon to rename the light to whatever you want.


Tap in the text box and give the light bulb a new name of your choice. This will make it much easier to tell which bulbs are which.


After you’ve renamed all your bulbs, go back to the Settings and select “Room setup”.


Then, you can repeat the room creation process as described above, but with your lights properly named.

 

How to Control Your Philips Hue Lights

From the main control screen, you can turn on and off a room using the switch on the right. You can also adjust the brightness using the bar below the room name.


You can also tap on a room to control each light bulb individually.


Tapping on the circle of an individual light bulb will bring up the color selector, where you can change the bulb to any color if you have the more expensive Hue White and Color bulbs. You can also tap on “Whites” to select a white color temperature.


There’s also a “Recipes” section that can change the color temperature based on different moods and scenarios.

Control Your Lights From Afar with Remote Access

If you want to be able to control your Hue lights when you’re away from home, you’ll need to create an account on Philips’ website (if you don’t have one already). You can do this by first tapping on “More” in the bottom-right corner of the main control screen.


From there, tap on “Log in to My Hue”.


Select “Log in” at the bottom.


The Philips Hue website will load in your web browser. Go ahead and select “Create an account” at the bottom or enter in your email address and password to log in if you already have an account.


Enter in your name, email address, password, and agree to the terms and conditions. Then tap on “Next step.”


Next, you’ll need to push the Push-Link button just like you did earlier when you first set up the Hue Bridge.


The website will verify the hub and it should verify the connection. Hit “Continue.”


On the next page, you’ll want to select “Yes” when it asks for access to your bridge for controlling your lights while you’re away from home. After that, you’ll be taken back to the Philips Hue app and remote access will now be enabled.

 

What You Can Do with Your Philips Hue Lights

Turning on and off your lights from your smartphone might be awesome, and turning them on and off with Siri is awfully convenient. But there are a handful of things you can do that don’t just involve flipping your lights on and off. Here are some of the basic features of Philips Hue lights that you can enable in the Philips Hue app.

 

Create “Scenes”

In the world of Philips Hue, “scenes” is a fancy term for presets. If there’s a particular color you like, or a certain brightness you use often, you can create a scene for it. That way, instead of changing the color on each individual bulb, you can change the entire room to your favorite preset with one tap. Even if you don’t have the fancy color-changing Hue lights, you can still create scenes with your white-only bulbs for specific brightness levels (like “daytime” and “nighttime”).
From the main screen in the Philips Hue app, select a room and tap on “Scenes” at the bottom (or the top, if you’re an Android user).

There will be a handful of pre-made scenes, but if you want to create your own, tap on the “+” icon in the bottom-right corner.


From there, the Hue app will allow you to create a scene from a photo. The app has some built-in images, but you can also use a photo that’s on your phone.







Alternatively, if you want more fine-grained control, you can create a scene by going to control page of a room and setting the light bulbs to how you want them. Then tap on the “+” icon.


From there, give the scene a name and hit “Save”. You can then access the scene on the “Scenes” page, and turning it on will bring your lights to that exact state.


Turn Off the Lights When You Leave

The new Philips Hue app lets you use geofencing to turn off and on your lights when you leave and get home, that way you never have to touch a light switch again.


Create Wake-Up Alarms

You can also use the Philips Hue app to create a wake-up alarm, which will slowly fade your lights on to simulate a sunrise.

Something like this is really nice if you wake up before the sun actually comes up, or your bedroom doesn’t get a whole lot of sunlight anyway.

We’ve also covered this in the past with the old Philips Hue app, but the process is similar in the new app. Simply just tap on “Routines” at the bottom and select “Wake up” to create your wake-up alarm.


The Shortcomings of the Gen 2 Hue App

While the new Philips Hue app brings a new look and layout that makes it a bit easier to control your Hue lights, it’s actually missing a few useful features from the original app–which is incredibly frustrating.

The Gen 2 app does not allow you to group lights so that you can adjust the color and temperature of two or more bulbs at once–instead, you have to create a scene for any color combo you may want. In addition, the Gen 1 app lets you pick out custom colors from a photo using an eyedropper tool when creating a scene–something the new app does not do.

Worst of all: the new app doesn’t seem to sync over your scenes from the old app, even when you sign into your Hue account on the new app and sync it via the My Hue web site. Your old scenes just won’t show up, and it’s safe to say that scenes overall are given less focus than before.

Thankfully, there are plenty of third-party apps that easily do grouping, and iConnectHue is our favorite one, as it can do a whole lot of stuff.

How to Upgrade Citrix XenDesktop 7.8 Infrastructure to the Latest Release

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In this step by step guide, I will show you the steps for upgrading a XenDesktop 7.x infrastructure to the latest release. 






 

Upgrading a XenDesktop 7.x environment

With the previous release of Citrix XenApp version, upgrading was a word which was not available in the Citrix dictionary. It was adviced to go through a new install and also in practice this was the way to go to a newer version of the Citrix software. In that timeframe it was not a bad thing as almost every upgrade also involved a new version of the Operating System. When this was no longer the case for all scenarios, Citrix introduced tools to export the configuration out of the current environment and import it again.

The first step Citrix made were tools to export the configuration of the current environment to the new infrastructure. With the release of XenDesktop 7.0, Citrix changed the way the versions were released. They made the decision to release versions in a smaller timeframe (including less changes per version). For the Current Release cycle every quarter a new version will be released. Logically within just released cycles, upgrades are a requirement to keep up to speed. 

For this article I will upgrade a XenDesktop 7.8 to the 7.9 (which is the latest release during writing this article), however the article applies to any 7.x version as the steps are the same for each version.

Upgrade Order

Happily, upgrading to a new version of Citrix XenDesktop (where I write XenDesktop, you can also read XenApp. The software is exactly the same, it’s on a license that makes the difference) is not that hard. Citrix did a great job by simplifying the installation and upgrade process. 

The first step is to create a back-up of the XenDesktop database. During the upgrade the database will be altered, so in case the upgrade fails we need to have the possibility to go back to a database just before the upgrade.


The back-up should be made from the SQL Management Studio or ask your database administrator to create a full back-up.

After creating the back-up, Citrix describes two upgrade paths. In the first scenario (which is shown within the upgrade wizard described later on) you first upgrade the VDAs, followed by the Directory and the Delivery Controllers. In the other scenario you first upgrade Director, the Delivery Controllers and later on the VDAs. Personally I like the second scenario better. It provides an easier roll-back path, while Citrix officially supports older VDA versions managed by a higher level Delivery Controller. 

So I will start describing the installation steps of the Delivery Controller.

A good way to go back after failing upgrades it to create a snapshot/checkpoint (in the case of virtual machines) within the hypervisor.

 

Delivery Controller Upgrade

The best way to Delivery Controller Upgrade is using the autorun on the ISO download. This will start the full installation, which ensures that all prerequisites will be installed if required. The installation will automatically detect the installed components.


In my demo environment I have also StoreFront and Directory installed on the Delivery Controller and those will automatically upgrade as well. There is no way to change this behavior  using the GUI, so take that into account (especially if you have multiple StoreFront servers as this can cause outages on StoreFront). For larger deployments, StoreFront and Director are often installed on another machine. The upgrade starts by clicking the upgrade pane on the left. The upgrade wizard starts with accepting the license agreement.


The following screen describes the upgrade path Citrix recommends. As stated this is just a preferred path, not required. For example also PVS is added to the path, while the product can be upgraded separately in advance or later as well. As mentioned I will use another strategy that Citrix supports.


After the instruction we can choose if the installation may update the Windows Firewall or if you will perform these steps manually. They are the same ports as the previous versions were using, so in theory those ports should be already configured. To be 100% sure I’m choosing to add the ports by the XenDesktop Upgrade.


Next an overview will be shown of which components will be upgraded. Via the upgrade button the upgrade is actually started. If any prerequisites are not available, the installer will automatically install those. In my case the prerequisites are already in place and are not shown. At each component the progress is shown till the upgrade has finished.


After the upgrade the wizard automatically continues with the next question. Citrix built in a component to gather information that is useful for Citrix to improve the product. They call this part Call Home, which can only be enabled or disabled (easily with a GUI) during the installation or upgrade as shown in the figure below.


After choosing to participate or not in the Call Home program the upgrade of the software is finished and the final upgrade screen will be shown stating that the upgrade was successful.


The next step is to start Studio to continue with the upgrade. If you want, the adminitration console can be started directly after the upgrade by checking the Launch Studio box at the end of the upgrade process.

When Studio is started after the upgrade of the software, the database needs to be upgraded as well. There are two scenarios available: upgrading via Studio or via PowerShell scripts to modify the database. 

The last option is required if your account or the Citrix Service Account does not have sysadmin rights and the SQL administrator will take care of the database upgrade. For the automatic site upgrade the account running the wizard should have the sysadmin rights. I have customers that provide that right temporarily during the upgrade and change the rights back to dbowner only after the upgrade process. 


For this article I’m using the automatic site upgrade option. When choosing the 'Start the automatic Site upgrade', a message appears reminding you that you should have made a back-up of the database.


After choosing the Upgrade button, the database modifications will be executed. After some time the site upgrade will be completed successfully.

 

After the upgrade, Citrix Studio is showing a warning that the other Delivery Controllers should be upgraded as well. So let’s continue with the upgrade of the other Delivery Controllers.


 

The installation part is exactly the same, so I will be reffering to those steps as described above for the first delivery controller. During this upgrade the second Delivery Controller was automatically registered again and the warning was not shown in Studio anymore (after starting the console again). If the message still shows up, click the warning Upgrade remaining Delivery Controllers followed by Register Controllers.

 

 

Citrix Director / StoreFront

In the upgrade of the Delivery Controller, StoreFront and Director were automatically upgraded as they were installed on the same machine as the Delivery Controller role. However it would advise to install StoreFront and Director together on a different machine. In that case we need to upgrade the Director and StoreFront on that machine. The easiest way is to use the auto select of the ISO for this part as well especially if you installed the current version used on the ISO. For example StoreFront is often installed via the separate provided executable. First take a look at the upgrade process using the ISO.

The start-up screen shows in the left pane that there are server components available to upgrade. In the right pane we see that the installer automatically detected StoreFront and Director installed.



We need to select the upgrade option in the left pane which leads us to the license agreement part of the upgrade process.


After accepting the license agreement by choosing I have read, understand and accept the terms of the license agreement the steps are shown to successfully upgrade, just like the installation of the Delivery Controller.


The next step is to define your Delivery Controllers. This information is being used for Citrix Director, so this software component can communicate with the XenDesktop site.


Also for Director. (however it is already added by the previous installation) the Windows Remote Assistance feature will be added.


Next the earlier seen firewall question is asked again to automatically or manually open the required firewall ports on the machine. 


After the firewall question, the upgrade process will be actually started via the Upgrade button.


Just as the previous upgrade processes, the installer shows the progress of the update.


At the end the wizard it will show that the upgrade was successful and we are done upgrading StoreFront and Director. Especially for StoreFront you should be careful because if you have multiple servers (which are not configured to only communicate on their own for the StoreFront part). I advise to upgrade the other StoreFront server(s) directly after the first one.

 

Conclusion:

In the above steps we started the process of upgrading the XenDesktop environment to a higher version (in this article to version 7.9). We started discussing the upgrade order, showing that there are multiple paths to a successful migration. We continued with the upgrade steps of the Delivery Controllers, followed by Citrix Director and StoreFront. 

In the below steps I will continue with the Citrix StoreFront stand-alone upgrade, followed by the VDA upgrade. 

 

Citrix StoreFront

In the first part we upgraded StoreFront installed from the ISO of XenDesktop. However StoreFront is also available as a separate installation executable which is often used to install StoreFront. It’s a best practice to update via the same installation process as the original. So if you installed StoreFront using the installation executable, also update using the same process. For XenDesktop 7.9 this means we are using the StoreFront 3.6 installation executable. After double clicking the installation executable (StroreFront-x64.exe) the upgrade process will start with the License agreement, which logically should be accepted before the upgrade wizard will continue.


The second step is already showing which will be installed (including prerequisites if required, but most will be already there).


Just as the other Citrix installers the progress is shown during the upgrade.


When the component is successfully upgraded the installation wizard will notify you.


After pushing finish the upgrade is finished. If you look at the installation wizard it looks like the installation is a new install, however all your settings are retained. If you start the StoreFront administration console you will see that your earlier configuration, Store and Receiver for Web settings are still available, while you can see that the StoreFront version is on a higher level.

 

If you need to do additional configuration steps really depends of which version of StoreFront you were running before. If you upgrade from a StoreFront 2.x to a StoreFront 3.x version you need to decide if you still want to use the Green Bubble look and feel or would like to change it to the Unified Gateway view. If you are already on a StoreFront 3.x and using the Unified Gateway you don’t have to do anything. What is really nice is that when you used the new way of branding/customizing the Receiver for Web these customizations are preserved, so your customized Receiver for Web is fully available after the upgrade.

 

VDA

The first thing is about the way you are provisioning the VDAs. You can use PVS, MCS or your own technique. In this article I'm not going into details for each methodology (an article about upgrading PVS will follow after this series). I also presume you don’t have any active users on the machine. Logically the action should be executed on a machine that is not being used. The upgrade also requires a reboot.

I will start at the point you are ready to actually upgrade the VDA software bits. This can be done via two ways.

Using the autoselect on the ISO or download the executable VDA<>setup.exe. In this article I’m using the software for servers (XenApp), but the steps are the same for the workstation based VDA software. When using the ISO the start screen is shown where in the middle pane Upgrade Machine and Images will be shown.


 

If you choose this option the same installation process is started when using the executable. The steps shown are exactly the same for both methods.

The upgrade starts with providing the option to configure the firewall automatically or perform the action manually. As these settings should already be in place (maybe you miss the framework ports if you upgrade from a lower 7.x version). When you use the MS Firewall I would use the automatic option.


 

Next a summary is shown with what information will be used during the upgrade. Also if prerequisites are applicable those will be shown (and automatically installed during the upgrade). As I’m upgrading from 7.8 to 7.9 no prerequisites are already in place (same prerequisites for XenDesktop 7.9 as 7.8).


 

After choosing the Upgrade button the software will be updated. Just as with the other components the progress is displayed during the upgrade.



Also for the VDA the Call Home function can be enabled or disabled. Changing it later on can only be done with a PowerShell cmdLets.


After configuring the Call Home, the installation process is finished and a summary will be displayed showing a successful upgrade. To finalize the upgrade the VDA needs to be restarted.

 

When the VDA is started again you check within Studio if the VDA is reporting the correct version. You need to select the column agent version via Select Columns button. In my case the machines are now upgraded to 7.9.0.101.



When all VDAs are upgraded within a Machine Catalog, you can upgrade the Machine Catalog. This will enable possible enhancements on this level. To start the upgrade of the Machine Catalog you select the catalog within Machine Catalogs and choose Upgrade Catalog out of the right mouse button menu or use the action pane on the right side of the console.

 

To upgrade a machine catalog the VDAs in the Machine Catalog need to be upgraded. The upgrade catalog wizard is checking that the VDAs are on the right level. If one or more is not on the required level the wizard will mention that and even shows which machines are not on the right level. However you can continue upgrading the machine catalog.



After pushing the upgrade button there is no feedback of the upgrade process. Personally it would be nice if there was a quick message that mentions that the upgrade of the catalog is successful.

The same steps need to be executed on the Delivery Group. For this part you select the corresponding Delivery Controller and choose Upgrade Delivery group available in the right mouse button menu of the right pane called actions.

 

Also for the upgrade of the Delivery Group the VDAs should be on the correct software level. This is the same as at the Machine Catalog level checked by the upgrade wizard of the Delivery Group. If the level of the VDA is not correct a warning appears, but you can continue the upgrade if you want.


 






No message is shown about the result of the Delivery Group upgrade, the same as for the Machine Catalog. If you have more Machine Catalogs and/or Delivery Groups you need to repeat these step for each Machine Catalog and/or Delivery Group.

After all Machine Catalogs and Delivery Groups are upgrade we also ended the upgrade steps for XenDesktop. If using the current release you only have to wait for the next quarter to redo these steps for the next version.

 

Wrapping things up

In this article I described the upgrade steps of a XenDesktop environment. In first part we started with the upgrade of the Delivery Controllers, followed by Citrix Director and Citrix StoreFront. In second part described the upgrade steps of the stand-alone Citrix StoreFront installation and the upgrade of the VDAs, the Machine Catalogs and the Delivery Groups. Citrix made the upgrade pretty smooth and easy, which logically was a requirement if you release a new version each quarter. Because the process is smooth and easy I don’t see any issues to keep up to date using the Current Release lifecycle of XenDesktop for many organizations.

How to Reset Android Apps Launcher to the Default

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Playing around with new application launchers on Android is pretty fun, but it isn’t exactly clear how to switch back to the default Google launcher. Read on as we show you.






Switching default applications can be a bit confusing. In fact, switching the default launcher was confusing enough that starting in Android 4.4, Google added a much more obvious way to go about doing it. It largely stayed the same until Android 7.0, when Google changed things just a tiny bit. We’ll outline how to change the launcher in all versions of Android, starting with the latest release first.

 

Changing the Default Launcher in Android 7.x Nougat

In Nougat, you can find the setting for the default launcher in the same place as every other default app. It makes sense when you think about it, but it might not be the first place you look–especially if you’re used to the old, pre-Nougat method.

The first thing you’ll need to do is jump into the Settings menu. Pull the notifications shade twice, then tap the cog icon.


From there, navigate down to “Apps,” then hit the cog icon in that menu.


A little way down that menu, you’ll see an entry fro “Home app”–tap that, change your launcher, and you’re finished.


Changing the Default Launcher in Android 4.4 – 6.x

Changing the launcher in Android 4.4 – 6.x is actually even easier. Pull the notifications shade twice, then tap the cog icon to go to Settings. Then scroll down and tap the Home option. That’s it. It’s worth noting that this option will only show up if you have multiple launchers installed. If you’re still using the stock option, this entry will not be there.

NOTE: Many Samsung devices won’t have the “Home” option in the root Settings menu. If yours doesn’t have this choice, then it’ll actually be more like the Nougat instructions above–just head into Settings > Applications > Default applications.



Within the Home menu you’ll find a super convenient application launcher selection screen.

From the Home menu you can select a new launcher as well as delete launchers you no longer want. The default launcher will always have the delete option grayed out (or no icon at all, depending on Android version). Older Android devices will have a default launcher named, simply enough, “Launcher,” where more recent devices will have “Google Now Launcher” as the stock default option. And this is, of course, contingent on manufacturer build, as well–for example, the default option is called “TouchWiz.” On LG devices, it’s just called “Home.”



Changing the Default Launcher In Pre-4.4 Android

If you’re running a device with any version of Android prior to 4.4, you’ll need to take a slightly different (and less intuitive) approach to changing your default launcher.

First, you need to navigate to Settings > Apps > All.


Scroll down and look for your current application launcher. In the case of our example device, the default launcher is the Google Now Launcher.

Click on the current default launcher and then scroll down to the “Launch by Default” section.







Tap “Clear defaults” to remove the default launcher flag. Then, press the home button on your device to trigger the launcher function.


Select the launcher you want and then select “Always” if you’re ready to commit to the selection or “Just once” if you want to play around with it. Whether you’re trying to switch back to the third launcher you tried out or the default you started with, it’s just few clicks in the right menu to sort things out.

How to Convert Windows Apps to Universal Windows Platform Apps with Desktop Bridge

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If you're looking to bring your traditional app to the Universal Windows Platform, this guide walks you through the steps to use the DesktopAppConverter to convert your app. In this Windows 10 guide, we'll walk you through the steps to convert a traditional desktop application into a Universal Windows Platform app.






On Windows 10, Microsoft is not only adding new features and making the operating system more secure, but it's also investing on making the Windows Store the single place for users to acquire apps.

The caveat with the Windows Store is that it doesn't include support for distribution of traditional desktop applications -- you're only able to download Universal Windows Platform (UWP) apps. However, Microsoft is making some changes, and now thanks to Desktop Bridge, we're slowly starting to see desktop apps and tools available in the Store.

 

What's Desktop Bridge?

It's all part of an initiative called Project Centennial, which now you know as Desktop Bridge. The new approach is essentially a "bridge" that let developers take traditional desktop applications and convert them into Universal Windows Platform (modern) apps.

The idea behind Desktop Bridge is that great apps take time and effort, and if they're already working, Microsoft doesn't want you to abandon that code. With Desktop Bridge, you can take your existing desktop application (Win32, WPF, and Windows Forms), make a little modification (if necessary), and bring that great code to the new platform, which can also take advantage of many new features.

The conversion is done using the DesktopAppConverter, which is a tool to automate the process (or at least most of it) to bring your desktop application built using .NET 4.6.1 or Win32 technologies to the new Universal Windows Platform (UWP). In addition, you can also publish the app in the Windows Store to reach millions of new customers, which is one of the reasons Microsoft wants you to convert your app.

 

How does Desktop Bridge works?

When converting an app, the tool runs the app installer inside of an isolated environment that uses a clean Windows 10 image. You can think of it as a lightweight virtual machine, which is used to capture file system I/O and registry keys generated by the desktop installer. Once the app is converted, you'll end up with an APPX package that you can quickly deploy to any computer running the 64-bit (x64) version of Windows 10 using a simple PowerShell cmdlet.

While Desktop Bridge is meant for developers, anyone (who is up to the challenge) can use the new tools and convert virtually any desktop application into a Windows Store app. This is because you don't need the source code — you only need the installer (the .exe file).

Things you need before converting an app

You'll need a computer running the Windows 10 Anniversary Update (build 14393 or later). Your computer must have a 64-bit processor, hardware-assisted virtualization, and Second Level Address Translation (SLAT).

It's important to note that you can only run the DesktopAppConverter on Windows 10 Pro or Enterprise. You can only convert applications with installers, and not portable apps. And you can only deploy converted apps to 64-bit machines.

Finally, you'll also need around 20GB of hard drive space, as the base image, developer tools, and the creation of the isolated environment will take several gigabytes. If you don't have enough storage, the process will fail, and it could take a lot of time to start over.

 

How to prepare your computer to convert apps

Once you have the required hardware and the latest version of Windows 10 running on your computer, you'll need to install and configure a few components.

Important: As usual, here is a friendly reminder to create a full backup of your system, which you can use in case something goes wrong and you need to roll back. This is a task also recommended for anyone who is not a developer but wants to try Desktop Bridge.

 

How to add Containers to Windows 10

While running the setup should install the Containers feature on Windows 10 automatically, there is a chance that this may not happen, as such you can enable this feature in advanced.

To add Containers, do the following:
  1. Open Control Panel.
  2. Click on Programs.
  3. Click on Turn Windows Features on or off.
  4. Check the Containers option.

 
  1. Click OK.
  2. Click Restart to complete the task.

 

How to install the Windows 10 SDK

You'll also need to have installed the Windows Software Development Kit (SDK) on your Windows 10 device, which you can easily do with the following steps:
  1. Download the Windows 10 SDK installer from the Microsoft support website.
  2. Double-click the installer.
  3. Leave the default location and click Next.



  • Decide whether to participate in the Microsoft data collection program and click Next.
  • Click Accept to get through the legal stuff.
  • Make sure all the components are checked and click Install.
 

  • Click Close to complete the task.
Roughly 2.3GB of files will be downloaded at this point, so it might take a while depending on the speed of your internet connection. 

How to install and setup the converter and base image

After checking the minimum system requirements and installing the necessary components, it's now time to install and configure the DesktopAppConverter and the base image.

Note: The commands used in this guide to run Desktop Bridge should work on Command Prompt as well as on PowerShell. However, the tool has been designed to work on PowerShell, so to avoid problems you'll be better off using PowerShell.
  1. Download the DesktopAppConverter from the Windows Store.
  2. On the Store, click the Install button to get the app.
  3. Once the DesktopAppConverter installs, do not launch the app, just close the Windows Store and continue with the steps below.
  4. Visit the Microsoft Download Center to grab the latest Desktop App Converter base image.
  5. Click the red Download button.



  • Select the .wim file with build number that matches the version of Windows 10 you have installed on your PC. For example, BaseImage-14393.wim, if you're running Windows 10 build 14393.
  • Click Next on the support page to begin the download.


If you don't know your current Windows 10 version number, use the Windows key + R keyboard shortcut, type the winver command on Run, and click OK.


  • Open the Start menu and do a search for PowerShell.
  • Right-click the app and select Run as administrator.
  • Type the following command and press Enter:
    Set-ExecutionPolicy bypass
  • Enter the letter A and press Enter to continue.

Now it's the time to set up Desktop Bridge with the base image, and to do that type the following command:

DesktopAppConverter.exe -Setup -BaseImage C:\PATH-TO-IMAGE\BaseImage-1XXXX.wim -Verbose

Important: You must change "XXXX" on the name of the base image to the number of the image you downloaded and remember to specify the path to the location of the image. For example:  

DesktopAppConverter.exe -Setup -BaseImage C:\Users\admin\Downloads\BaseImage-14393.wim -Verbose.

The below image shows an example of the complete command.


  • Restart your computer if prompted. Then PowerShell will open automatically to complete the setup after the reboot by expanding the image to prep the isolated environment.
Once the setup completes, you'll end up in the root directory of the DesktopAppConverter. In my experience, it works better if you continue with next set of instructions while in the root directory of the converter. At least for the purpose of this guide, leave PowerShell open and continue with the instructions below.

 

How to convert desktop apps to Windows Store apps

Congratulations! You made it this far, and now it's the time to have fun. After setting up the converter, you can proceed to convert your traditional desktop app into a Universal Windows Platform app.

For this guide, I chose to convert the popular Notepad++ desktop app, which you can always download and use from the official site. Of course, you can always try to use your own application or another installer.
Quick Tip: It's important to download the app installer in its own folder, as the converter will copy all the files from that location to the isolated environment.

To convert a desktop app into a modern app, do the following:
  1. If you don't have PowerShell already open, bring up the Start menu and do a search for PowerShell.
  2. Right-click the app and select Run as administrator.
  3. Type the following command and press Enter to convert the app:
    DesktopAppConverter.exe -Installer C:\APP-INSTALLER-PATH\APP-NAME.exe -InstallerArguments "/S" -Destination C:\APP-CONVERSION-OUTPUT\APP-NAME -PackageName "APP-NAME" -Publisher "CN=PUBLISHER-NAME" -Version 0.0.0.1 -MakeAppx -Verbose

With this command we're invoking the DesktopAppConverter and passing several arguments. The -Installer switch is used to note the location of the installer. The InstallerAgument "/S" allows to run the installer in silent mode inside the isolated environment, which let the converter record the install process without user interaction.

Then the -Destination switch notes the location the converter will output the final project files. And the rest of the parameters will define the identity of the app, such as package and publisher name, and version number.

Remember that you must update the command line with the appropriate information for your application and paths. Here's an example:  

DesktopAppConverter.exe -Installer C:\Users\admin\Downloads\npp.7.Installer.exe -InstallerArguments "/S" -Destination C:\Users\admin\Downloads\NotepadPlus -PackageName "NotepadPlus" -Publisher "CN=NotepadPlus" -Version 0.0.0.1 -MakeAppx -Verbose

The DesktopAppConverter will then kick in and begin the conversion process, which can take a while depending on your system.

 

How to install a converted app on Windows 10

Once the process completes without any red flags, you'll end up with a project folder that contains a file with a .appx extension.

The final step will be to install the converted app on your computer and to do this you'll need to use PowerShell.

To install an APPX application on Windows 10, do the following:
  1. Open Start menu and do a search for PowerShell.
  2. Right-click the app and select Run as administrator.
  3. Type the following command and press Enter to convert the app:
    Add-AppxPackage -Path PATH-TO-APPXFILE\AppxManifest.xml -Register






Remember to replace "PATH-TO-APPFILE" for the path of your AppxManifest.xml file, whic is inside of the ProgramFiles folder, inside the project output folder. For example, Add-AppxPackage -Path C:\Users\Admin\Downloads\App\PrograFiles\AppxManifest.xml -Register.

At this point, PowerShell should install the converted modern app on your computer. You can then launch the app like with any other app from the Start menu -- it'll even show up in the Recently Added list.


Wrapping things up

It's worth pointing out that after converting and installing, the app will run on your computer like any other app. However, for developers at least, this is just the beginning. If you want to take advantage of the new platform fully, you still have to customize other aspects of the app, such as some visual elements like the app icon, sign the package, and incorporate other specific features available in the new app model like notifications, Live Tiles, Action Center, and more.

How to Encrypt Facebook Messages With “Secret Conversation” Mode

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Facebook has finally gotten with the times and rolled out device-to-device encrypted communication to all of the billion Facebook Messenger users. Here’s how to turn it on, which shortcomings to be aware of, and why you should start using it now.





 

What Secret Conversation Is (and Isn’t)

Let’s lead with the good stuff: Secret Conversation is a new feature in the Facebook Messenger mobile app that provides end-to-end encryption between devices running the most current version of the application (if you haven’t updated Facebook Messenger recently, now would be the time to do so before reading on).
Even better, it’s not just some “It’s secure because we say it’s secure!” setup. 

The underpinnings of Secret Conversation is the Open Whisper Systems peer-reviewed Signal protocol used by the popular iOS/Android private messaging app Signal.  In fact, if you’re in the mood for it, you can even read Facebook’s publicly available whitepaper on their adoption of the protocol and its Messenger integration.


While that’s all super awesome, the whole thing isn’t without a few shortcomings. First of all, it requires the Facebook Messenger app–this feature isn’t available on the desktop version of Facebook.

In addition, while the feature is turned on by default (depending on your device), your messages aren’t encrypted by default–you have to manually start a secret conversation in order to use encryption. In 2016, heavy duty encryption should be the norm. Further, if your chat partner is using an older copy of Messenger because they haven’t (or can’t) upgrade, then you can’t use the encryption with them. It also doesn’t work with group chats because it’s a device-to-device system, and presently doesn’t support multi-user encryption (and won’t support this feature in the foreseeable future).

In addition it doesn’t work with video, voice calling, or GIF files (which is fair because it would introduce a huge amount of overhead to encrypt those large files) but you can  send images through the encrypted chat. Finally, because the encryption keys are device specific, unlike with traditional Messenger messages you can’t switch between your phone and your tablet and keep the same conversation going. The device you start a Secret Conversation on is the device you have to end it on, and you can only use it on one device at a time.

All that said, however, the introduction of secure and proper end-to-end encryption in Facebook Messenger is a fantastic improvement–and it’s an improvement everyone should be taking advantage of. Given the enormous number of leaks over the last few years that indicate practically everyone is eavesdropping on our digital communications, you have nothing to lose from enabling encryption wherever you can.

 

How to Use Secret Conversation

Now that we’ve gone through a quick run through of what Secret Conversation can and cannot do, let’s jump right into using it including creating new messages, setting self-destruct timers, and even wiping all your secret conversations at once.

 

Select Which Device You’ll Use

Like we mentioned above, you can only use this feature on one device at a time, and you have to use that device for all your encrypted communication. If you only use Facebook Messenger on your phone, then no worries–jump right to the next section.

If, on the other hand, you’ve got it installed on multiple devices–like an iPhone, an iPad, and an iPod Touch you use as a kick-around device to read social media in the bathroom with–you have to pick which one will be the carrier of the encrypted torch.

By default, the first device you upgrade to the latest version of Facebook Messenger will be the one that the feature is turned on for. If you need to toggle it on for a different device, however, you can do so easily. Open Facebook Messenger on your device and tap the little silhouette “Me” icon in the lower corner.


Scroll down until you see the settings entry for “Secret Conversation”. Tap on it.


Ensure “Secret Conversations” is toggled on.


Don’t worry about following up with your other devices, as soon as you turn the feature on while using your primary device, it will automatically be disabled on all the other devices.

 

Starting a Brand New Secret Conversation

There are two ways to start a Secret Conversation: you can start one fresh, or you can switch an existing conversation over. To start a fresh one with a friend, you simply tap on the compose icon at the top of Messenger’s home screen, like so.


Select “Secret” in the upper right hand corner of the screen.


Once you select “Secret” just pick the friend you want to send the secret message to on the next page and you’re in business.


The giant “Secret Conversation” and black lock icon tell you all you need to know: the conversation is now encrypted. Simply use Messenger like you otherwise would.

 

Switching Over to a Secret Conversation From an Existing One

Let’s say you’re already chatting with someone, however, and you want to jump to an encrypted the conversation. That’s a more likely scenario as the people you chat with the most frequently are also the ones you are most likely to want to securely communicate with.

Starting a Secret Conversation with them is simple. Just open up the existing message chain you have with them and tap on their name in the top navigation bar.


In the resulting contact menu, select “Secret Conversation” located roughly halfway down the screen.


Your conversation will now be converted to a “Secret Conversation” and you can begin sending messages back and forth.


Unlike the regular conversations where your text bubbles are blue, in “Secret Conversation” mode they will be black.

One small but important thing worth noting before we proceed: when you use this this trick to start a Secret Conversation with an existing chat partner, it doesn’t retroactively protect your existing conversation. In fact, it actually splits your conversational stream with them into two: your regular non-encrypted Facebook Messenger chat continues and a new Secret Conversation chat starts.


You can see in the screenshot above how after starting a Secret Conversation with Matt we then have two conversations listed with him in Messenger.

 

Enabling Self-Destructing Messages

While everything else is the same when chatting in a Secret Conversation–you send pictures the same way, you chat back and forth the same way–there’s a new chat feature built into the new mode: Snapchat-like self-destructing messages.

When sending a message, simply tap on the clock icon located on the right hand side of the chat box.


Once you tap the clock, you’ll have the option to select how long the message should exist after it is first viewed before expiring. You can select anywhere from 5 seconds to 1 day.


Note that the chat box changes in two ways: it now indicates in red what the expiry time is and the clock icon is filled in. Also note that the sent message has been seen and there is a countdown next to it.


The expiration time will remain for all future messages unless you tap on the clock icon and select “Off” to disable message expiry.

 

Confirming Your Secret Conversation Is Actually Secret

This particular step is completely optional on your part, but it’s fun (for the curious) and comforting (for the paranoid). If you wish you can compare the device keys used by your device and your chat partner’s device.
At any time you can click on


Here you will find you and your partner’s device keys, displayed in a long hexadecimal string. Remember these are device keys and specific to your physical device (and not to your Facebook login alone). This means if you switch between using Messenger on your iPhone to your iPad (or buy a new iPhone) the key will change with the hardware.


What I see as “Your Key” is what Matt should see as “Jason’s” key, and vice versa. By comparing these keys in person or in another secure fashion you can be extra double sure you’re communicating securely with each other. Again, however, outside the realm of the very curious or the very paranoid, this is definitely not a required step to use Secret Conversation mode.

 

Deleting Secret Conversations

Finally, you may find that you wish to torch some or all of your Secret Conversations. You can approach this issue one of two ways. You can delete individual Secret Conversations at the chat level by tapping on your Secret Conversation chat partner’s name (as we just did to check the Device Keys) and then selecting “Delete Conversation”.







You can also remove all Secret Conversations in one swoop by returning to the menu we first visited in the tutorial to check the status of Secrete Conversations on your device–Me > Secret Conversations–and select “Delete Secret Conversations”.


After confirming this will nuke all the Secret Conversations on your device.

That’s all there is to it, with a little insight into how it all works (and sometimes doesn’t work) you can easily begin enjoying encrypted chat with all your Facebook Messenger pals.

Now You Can Play Xbox 360 Games on Your Xbox One

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Microsoft’s Xbox One can now play a limited number of Xbox 360 games. But it’s not as simple as inserting any old disc and starting it up. Only some games will work, and the Xbox One runs them in an emulator.





 

How Backwards Compatibility Works

The Xbox One isn’t normally capable of playing Xbox 360 games. Instead, Microsoft created an emulator that simulates the Xbox 360’s hardware and software. Xbox 360 games run inside this emulator. It’s similar to how the “virtual console” games work on Nintendo’s Wii U and Wii, or how you’d run old console games in emulators on a PC.

Not all games will run in the emulator. If you have an Xbox 360 game that’s compatible with your Xbox One, you can insert it into your Xbox One’s disc drive. The Xbox One will then download a ported version of that game from Microsoft’s servers and make it available on your console alongside your other installed games. If you have a digital copy of the game, you can download it from Microsoft’s servers like you’d download any other digital Xbox One game.


Once you do get a game running, it should work well. You can even use the Xbox One’s Game DVR feature to record your gameplay in in Xbox 360 game. Eurogamer tested many major games and found that many of them performed better on the Xbox One than the Xbox 360, although some games had minor hitches and graphical problems that didn’t appear on the Xbox 360.

But again: all this only works if the Microsoft has made the game compatible with the Xbox One. Each game’s publisher will need to sign off on this, and not every publisher has done so.

 

How to Check if an Xbox 360 Game Will Work on Your Xbox One

Before you go out of your way to get an Xbox 360 game for your Xbox One, be sure it’s actually compatible. The Backwards Compatibility page on Microsoft’s Xbox website contains a comprehensive list of backwards compatible games and shows games that were recently added to the program. There’s also this text-only list.

If a game you want to play isn’t backwards compatible yet, check back in the future. Microsoft regularly adds more games to the backwards compatibility program.


How to Install and Play an Xbox 360 Game on Your Xbox One

If you don’t have a game you want to play yet, there are two ways to get one. First, you can acquire a physical copy of the game. This can be either a new copy or a used copy, so you may be able to find a good deal on a website like eBay or Amazon (or at your local video game shop).

Used copies work well because the Xbox One doesn’t actually play the game from the disc. The Xbox One just needs to check the disc and verify what it is. The actual game is downloaded from Microsoft’s servers and run from your Xbox One’s hard drive. As long as the Xbox One can recognize the disc, you’re fine.

Once you have the disc, insert it into your Xbox One. The Xbox One will tell you it needs to download an “update” for the game. It’s really downloading the entire ported version of the game.


When it’s done, you just have to launch the game like you would any other. The Xbox One will need the game’s disc in its disc drive while you play it to confirm you do indeed own the game, but the game will actually run from the Xbox One’s internal drive and not the disc.


You can also purchase digital copies of Xbox 360 games from Microsoft’s Xbox store. If you already own a digital copy of the game, you’ll find it available for installation on your Xbox One alongside any normal Xbox One games you have. Head to My Games and Apps > Ready to Install to see games and apps you can install.

If you have an Xbox Live Gold subscription, you’ll also be able to download the Xbox 360 games given away for free every month on your Xbox One. Microsoft has promised that all future Xbox 360 games included with Xbox Live Gold will be compatible with the Xbox One.


How Does DLC Work?

Downloadable content works in backwards compatible Xbox 360 games on the Xbox One, too. You can buy the DLC on the Xbox Store and it will “just work” in the backwards compatible game, as if you were playing the game on an Xbox 360.

Games with bundled DLC should work properly. For example, Red Dead Redemption for Xbox 360 is available in three different editions: Red Dead Redemption (standard), Red Dead Redemption: Undead Nightmare, and Red Dead Redemption: Game of the Year Edition. All three discs are compatible and work how you’d expect them to. The “Game of the Year” edition disc comes with all the additional content, so it will just work in the game. The standard disc doesn’t come with any additional content, but you can choose to purchase the DLC from the Xbox Store and it will be enabled in your game.





That’s how it should work for most games, in theory. In practice, we found that the Xbox One just downloaded the base version of Fable II when we inserted a Fable II: Game of the Year Edition disc. The system wanted us to purchase the DLC that should have been included with the game. The Xbox One can’t seem to tell the difference between the base and game of the year versions of this particular game. The Xbox One may be confused about some other “Game of the Year” games and their DLC, too–we’re not sure if this problem is specific to this one game or not.


All in all, though, the system works pretty well–and should have you playing your old Xbox 360 games in no time.

Sign Your Documents Electronically Without Printing or Scanning Them

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You are emailed a document and you have to sign it and send it back. You could print out the document, sign it, and then scan it back in and email it. But there’s a better, faster way. We’ll show you how to quickly add your signature to any PDF document, saving it as a standard PDF file that can be read anywhere. We won’t be covering digital signatures that few people know how to read.





 

Electronic Signatures, Not Digital Signatures

Digital signatures are something else entirely. A digital signature is cryptographically secure and verifies that someone with your private signing key (in other words, you) has seen the document and authorized it.

A digital signature is way more secure than a traditional ink signature or a signature image overlaid on top of a PDF document. But we won’t be using those here.

Why? The answer is simple — most people are expecting a document with a little scribble of ink on it. Send them a PDF file with a digital signature and they won’t know what to make of it. For many businesses, simply accepting signed documents by email rather than forcing you to fax them is a huge technological leap.

So sure, the below methods aren’t perfectly secure — but neither is printing something, scribbling over it with a pen, and then scanning it again. At least this is faster!

Instead of digital signatures, we’ll be using electronic signatures. They are just like traditional ink signatures, but applied electronically to documents without any printing or scanning required.

 

Adobe Reader

We haven’t been big fans of Adobe Reader in the past — the program has been notoriously slow, bloated, and vulnerable, although that has all improved somewhat — but Adobe Reader has good, integrated digital signature support. Most people would be better off with a more minimal PDF reader that isn’t packed with so many features, but every now and then all those features can come in handy.

Other third-party PDF readers may offer this feature, but they generally require you purchase a paid version before using their signature features. If you’re worried about security, you may want to leave a third-party PDF reader as your main PDF reader and disable Adobe Reader’s browser integration, just firing it up when you need to sign a document.

Adobe Reader’s own settings menu no longer has any option for disabling its browser integration, so you’ll need to disable the Adobe Reader plugin in the browsers you use.

First, open the PDF document in Adobe Reader. If Adobe Reader detects a signature field, it’ll prompt you to open the Sign pane. If not, just click the Sign button at the top-right corner.


Use the Place Signature option to use a real signature. The other options here just add text, checkmarks, or initials — not good enough.


The Place Signature dialogue allows you to create a signature in a variety of ways:
  • Type my signature: Type your name and Adobe Reader will automatically generate something that looks like a signature from it. You’ll probably want to avoid this one, as you’ll want something that looks more like your real signature.
  • Use a webcam: Sign your name in black ink on white paper and Adobe Reader can use your webcam to capture its shape.
  • Draw my signature: Draw your signature with a mouse. If you have a stylus or amazing hand-eye coordination, you may be able to draw something that looks like your real signature, but this probably won’t be good enough.
  • Use an image: You can sign your signature to a piece of paper and use a scanner to scan it to your computer, then crop it and create an image file from it. If you do this, you can use the Use an image option to insert your signature from an image file.
Using a webcam will be the ideal option for most people. Sign a piece of white paper in black ink, hold it up to your webcam, and scan it in.

Adobe Reader doesn’t just take a photo of your signature — it generates a new signature that matches the shape of your signature, so it can be inserted cleanly into other documents.

 

Once you have scanned your signature, use the Place signature button to insert and position it anywhere in a PDF document.

You only have to scan in your signature once — you can quickly insert your signature in other documents in the future.



You can now save your PDF file using the standard Save option under the File menu. This will create a new PDF file with the same name as the original PDF, but with -signed at the end. Of course, you can name the new PDF anything you like.

Adobe will prompt you to use Adobe EchoSign to send your signed document, but you can just decline this offer to continue.

 
All we have done is inserted a new image into the PDF file — no fancy digital signature nonsense — so the signed document should be readable in all PDF readers.

If the signature doesn’t look realistic enough and you would prefer that standard ink-on-paper look, feel free to scan it in with a scanner and insert it as an image instead.



HelloSign

Okay, maybe you don’t want to use Adobe Reader for this — we get it. If you’re looking for a web app, try HelloSign. It integrates directly with Gmail so you can sign documents right from your email. it also synchronizes with Google Drove, Dropbox, Box, SkyDrive, and Evernote.





HelloSign allows you to upload a signature file, draw it in with your mouse, or take a photo of your signature with a smartphone. Once it has your signature, it can sign and email documents quickly. Its integration with Gmail and ability to quickly sign and send documents may make it the ideal solution if you frequently need to sign and email documents without downloading them and using a desktop application.

HelloSign is free if you just need a single-user account, so you won’t have to shell out any money for the privilege of electronically signing documents.

 
These aren’t the only options, of course. Mac OS X users can use the signing feature built into Apple’s Preview PDF reader. Third-party PDF readers like PDF-Xchange PRO also offer this feature, but you will need to pay for it. If you are looking for a mobile app, you may want to look at something like SignNow.

Customize Logon Screen Background on Your Windows 7, 8, or 10

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Windows makes it possible to change the welcome screen that appears when you start your computer without any third-party software, but this setting is well hidden in Windows 7 — although much easier in Windows 8 or 10. You can set any image you like as your background.





 

Setting a Custom Logon Background for Windows 8 or 10

Windows_10

Windows 8 and Windows 10 make this process a lot easier — all you have to do is open up the PC Settings and go to Personalization and then Lock Screen. For Windows 8, you’ll need to open up Settings from the Start Screen or from the Charms. For Windows 10, you’ll need to open it from the Start Menu.

The screens look slightly different in Windows 8 than they do in Windows 10, but it’s the same exact thing.

Windows_10

 

Enabling Custom Backgrounds in Windows 7

For Windows 7, this setting is intended for original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) to customize their systems, but there’s nothing stopping you from using it yourself. All you have to do is change a single registry value and put an image file in the correct location.

This feature is disabled by default, so you’ll have to enable it from the Registry Editor. You can also use the Group Policy Editor if you have a Professional version of Windows – scroll down a bit for the Group Policy Editor method.

Launch the Registry Editor by typing regedit into the search box in the Start menu and pressing Enter.

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In the Registry Editor, navigate to the following key:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Authentication\LogonUI\Background
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You’ll see an DWORD value named OEMBackground. If you don’t see it, right-click in the right pane, point to the New submenu and create a new DWORD value with this name.

Double-click the OEMBackground value and set its value to 1.

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Note that selecting a new theme in the Appearance and Personalization window will “unset” this registry value. Selecting a theme will change the value of the key to the value stored in the theme’s .ini file, which is probably 0 – if you change your theme, you’ll have to perform this registry tweak again.

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Changing the setting in group policy will allow it to persist even when you change your theme, but the Group Policy Editor is only available in Professional editions of Windows.

If you have access to the Group Policy Editor, launch gpedit.msc from the Start menu.

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Navigate to the following section in the Group Policy Editor window:
Computer Configuration\Administrative Templates\System\Logon
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You’ll find a setting named “Always use custom login background.” Double-click it and set it to Enabled.

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Setting An Image

Your image file must be less than 256 KB in size. It’s also a good idea to use an image file that matches the resolution of your monitor, so it won’t look stretched.

Windows looks for the custom logon screen background image in the following directory:
C:\Windows\System32\oobe\info\backgrounds
By default, the info and backgrounds folders don’t exist. Navigate to the C:\Windows\System32\oobe folder and create them yourself by right-clicking inside the folder, pointing to New, and selecting New Folder.

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Copy your desired background image to the backgrounds folder and name it backgroundDefault.jpg.

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(I can see the inevitable question coming in the comments, so if you like this wallpaper image, you can get it here.)

The change will take effect immediately – no system reboot required. The first time you log out or lock your screen (try the WinKey-L keyboard shortcut), you’ll see your new background.

Logon screen




 

Third-Party Tools (for Windows 7 Users)

You don’t have to do this by hand. There are a variety of third-party tools that automate this process for you, like Windows Logon Background Changer. Windows Logon Background Changer and other utilities just change this registry value and put the image file in the correct location for you.

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To get the default logon screen back, just delete the backgroundDefault.jpg file. Windows will use the default background if no custom background image is available.

How to Restore TrustedInstaller as Owner for System Files on Windows 10

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In this Windows 10 guide, we'll walk you through the steps to restore ownership of system files to the TrustedInstaller built-in user account.





If you're like most tech-savvy users, you don't settle for default configurations. You're always looking for ways to customize your system to improve productivity or to make your PC more unique.

Sometimes, to customize the operating system, in this case Windows 10, you need to modify some system files. When you need to do this, it often requires taking full control of certain files, which involves removing the special built-in "TrustedInstaller" user account as the owner of the file and granting your account full access.

However, later on, you may want to restore the original permission settings to the system file, but there is not an option to do that on Windows 10. In addition, if this isn't something you do every day, you'll probably forget what the original settings were.

How to restore TrustedInstaller ownership to system files

  • Open File Explorer.
  • Browse to the system file you previously changed ownership.
  • Right-click the file, and select Properties.
  • Click on the Security tab.
  • Click the Advanced button.


On the "Advanced Security Settings" page, click the Change link on Owner.


On the "Select User or Group" page, type the following to add the TrustedInstaller account and click Check Names: 

NT Service\TrustedInstaller

Click OK.







  • Click Apply.
  • Click OK again to complete the task.
These steps now restored the ownership of the file to the built-in TrustedInstaller.

Keep in mind that this works for system files as well as for system folders. Also, don't forget to check the "Replace owner on the subcontainers and objects" and "Replace all child object permission entries with inheritable permission entries from this object" options, if you previously changed these settings on system folders.

Finally, if you granted yourself full control to the system file, you may also want to remove these settings as well, and to do that you can use the following steps:
  • Right-click the system file, and select Properties.
  • Click on the Security tab.
  • Click the Advanced button.
  • On the "Advanced Security Settings" page select your account.
  • Click Remove.


  • Click Apply.
  • Click OK to complete the task.

How to Fix Proximity Sensor Issue on Redmi Note 3

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One of the common complaints that most Redmi Note 3 users have with the phone is the buggy proximity sensor. For some reason, the proximity sensor on the phone stops working every once in a while. This leads to the phone’s screen not turning off when one is on a phone call. In other cases, the phone’s screen will automatically turn itself on even though you are in the middle of a phone call.


It remains unclear if this is a hardware or a software issue for now. The issue has persisted for users across multiple updates of MIUI, including the jump from MIUI 7 to MIUI 8. Thankfully, there are quite a few fixes that you try to solve or at least reduce the issues with the proximity sensor on your Redmi Note 3. Check them out below.


Restart your phone

A simple and effective fix that has worked reliably for a lot of Redmi Note 3 users. While temporary in nature, a simple reboot is all it takes to get the proximity sensor up and running the way it is intended to on the Redmi Note 3.
The ‘temporary’ nature of the fix will vary depending on your MIUI version and device usage. Nonetheless, a simple restart once in a few days will keep issues with the proximity sensor on your Redmi Note 3 at bay.


Recalibrate the proximity sensor

If a restart does not solve the proximity sensor issues on your Redmi Note 3, you can try recalibrating the sensor from the hidden service menu of the phone. This service menu can be accessed by opening the Dialer app and keying in “*#*#64663#*#*”. From the menu that opens up, tap Proximity Sensor followed by Calibration. Once the calibration successfully toast message comes up, tap Black Card and immediately keep your finger on the proximity sensor. You should get a BlackCard success message. If not, repeat the step again.


The proximity sensor on your Redmi Note 3 should work as intended now. In case it does not, calibrate the sensor and then restart the phone.

You can also use the hidden service menu to check other hardware components of your Redmi Note 3 are working properly or not.

 

Update to the latest version of MIUI

If you have not already, make sure that your Redmi Note 3 is running on the latest version of MIUI. You can also try switching to the beta or developer channel of MIUI to see if it helps in solving the proximity sensor issues that you are facing on your Redmi Note 3.

You can download the global beta build of MIUI for Redmi Note 3 from here.

 

Factory Reset

If all the above steps did not work in fixing the proximity sensor issues on your Redmi Note 3, your last resort is to conduct a factory reset on the handset. While painful, a factory reset will — at least temporarily — fix any proximity sensor issue you are facing on the phone. If not, be rest assured that this is a hardware defect and you should take your phone to the nearest Mi service centre.



You can factory reset your Redmi Note 3 by going to Settings -> Additional Settings -> Backup & reset -> Factory data reset -> Reset phone. You will have to enter your Mi account password before you will be able to factory reset the device.

Many Redmi 3S owners have also complained about the proximity sensor not working on their device. The above tips should work on their device as well.

How to Change Internet Browser User Agent Without Installing Any Extensions

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If you ever wanted to make your web traffic seem like it was coming from a different browser–say, to trick a site that claims it’s incompatible with yours–you can. All popular browsers offer built-in user agent switchers, so you can change your user agent without installing any extensions.







Websites identify browsers by their “user agents“. Change a browser’s user agent and it will report it’s a different browser to websites. This allows you to request web pages intended for different browsers–or even different devices, like smartphones and tablets.

 

Google Chrome

Chrome’s user agent switcher is part of its Developer Tools. Open them by clicking the menu button and selecting More Tools > Developer Tools. You can also use press Ctrl+Shift+I on your keyboard.



Click the menu button to the right of the “Console” tab at at the bottom of the Developer Tools pane and select “Network Conditions”

If you don’t see the console at the bottom, click the menu button at the top right corner of the Developer Tools pane–that’s the button just to the left of the “x”–and select “Show Console”.


On the Network conditions tab, uncheck “Select automatically” next to User agent. You can then select a user agent from the list or copy and paste a custom user agent into the box.

This setting is temporary. It only works while you have the Developer Tools pane open, and it only applies to the current tab.


Mozilla Firefox

In Mozilla Firefox, this option is buried on Firefox’s about:config page.

To access the about:config page, type about:config into Firefox’s address bar and press Enter. You’ll see a warning–be careful when you change settings here, you could mess up Firefox’s settings.


Type useragent into the filter box. We’re looking for the general.useragent.overridepreference, but it probably won’t exist on your system.


To create the preference, right-click on the about:config page, point to New, and select String.


Name the preference general.useragent.override .


Enter your desired user agent as the value of the preference. You’ll have to look up your desired user agent on the web and enter it exactly. For example, the following user agent is used by Googlebot, Google’s web crawler:
Mozilla/5.0 (compatible; Googlebot/2.1; +http://www.google.com/bot.html)
You can find extensive lists of user agents on various websites, such as this one.


This setting applies to every open tab and persists until you change it, even if you close and reopen Firefox.
To revert Firefox to the default user agent, right-click the “general.useragent.override” preference and select Reset.


Microsoft Edge and Internet Explorer

Microsoft Edge and Internet Explorer have user agent switchers in their developer tools, and they’re nearly identical. To open them, click the settings menu and select “F12 Developer Tools” or just press F12 on your keyboard.


The developer tools will open in a separate pane at the bottom of the window. Click the “Emulation” tab and choose a user agent from the “User agent string” box. You can also select the “Custom” option in the User agent string list and type a custom user agent into the box. You can find extensive lists of user agents on various websites, such as this one.

This setting is temporary. It only applies to the current tab, and only while the F12 Developer Tools pane is open.


Apple Safari

This option is available in Safari’s normally hidden Develop menu. To enable it, click Safari > Preferences. Select the “Advanced” tab and enable the “Show Develop menu in menu bar” option at the bottom of the window.








Click Develop > User Agent and select the user agent you want to use in the list. If the user agent you want to use isn’t shown here, select “Other” and you can provide a custom user agent. You can find extensive lists of user agents on various websites, such as this one.

This option only applies to the current tab. Other open tabs and tabs you open in the future will use the “Default” user agent.

Fix Xbox Sign-in Failure After installing Windows 10 build 14942

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If you're having problems signing into games that use Xbox Live after installing Windows 10 build 14942, then use this workaround to fix the issue. In this Windows 10 guide, we'll walk you through the steps to successfully sign-in to games that use Xbox Live if you're running Windows 10 Redstone 2 (build 14942).






 

How to fix Xbox sign-in failure on Windows 10 build 14942

  1. Use the Windows key + X keyboard shortcut to open the Power User menu and select Command Prompt (admin).
  2. Type the following command and press Enter:
    REG ADD HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\XblAuthManager /v SvcHostSplitDisable /t REG_DWORD /d 1 /f



  1. Reboot your computer to complete the task.
When you restart your system, the XblAuthManager will now share a service host process with Windows Update and Background Intelligent Transfer Service, which will allow you to sign back into Xbox Live.

Can You Move Your Old Computer Windows License to a New PC?

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Can you transfer your Windows license between PCs? It depends–the answer isn’t so cut and dried. Microsoft makes this stuff confusing on purpose. Windows Activation has unclear rules to make piracy harder, while the System Builder license agreement forbids things real users do every day.






 

Why You Might Want to Move a License

Transferring a Windows license (product key) isn’t something the average PC user will ever need to do. Most people will purchase a computer with a Windows license preinstalled. When they upgrade to a new computer, the new computer comes with its own Windows license.

Note that transferring a Windows license is different from actually moving an entire Windows installation to a new computer. That’s a lot harder to do, and it’s usually better to just perform a fresh install on the new computer if that’s what you need.

Here are a few examples of situations where you might want to move a your license to a new computer:
  • You’re building a new computer from scratch and want to use your existing Windows license rather than paying $120 for a new one.
  • Your computer’s motherboard failed and you needed to replace it. Windows activation considers a PC with a new motherboard to be an entirely new PC.
  • Your computer died and you want to use its license to upgrade another computer running an older version of Windows.
  • You’ve installed Windows in Boot Camp on a Mac and you want to move your Windows installation to another Mac.
  • You’ve installed Windows in a virtual machine and you want to move it to a different virtual machine on another computer.
In other words: if you already have a valid license lying around and don’t want to buy a new one, you’ll want to transfer it.

 

A License Can Only Be Installed on One PC at a Time



No matter what type of license you have, you can only have it installed on one PC at a time. That’s Microsoft’s rule. So, while you may be able to move a license to another PC, you’re supposed to remove it from the first PC before you do that. You can do that by wiping the PC’s hard drive or even uninstalling the key from your Windows system.

Large organizations can acquire special “volume licenses” that allow them to activate multiple computers with the same license key. However, that’s the only exception to this rule.

 

Always Allowed: Replacing a Motherboard Because It’s Broken

You can upgrade a lot of hardware components without Windows freaking out, including the graphics card, RAM, and hard drive. But Windows doesn’t normally allow you to replace your computer’s motherboard. When your computer gets a new motherboard, Windows considers that an entirely new computer and will deactivate itself.

While Windows won’t normally allow you to upgrade your computer’s motherboard, there’s one exception, as far as we know: If your motherboard fails and needs to be replaced, you can move your Windows installation to the “new computer” with the new motherboard.

This exemption should be available no matter which type of license you’re using. It ensures you don’t have to buy a new Windows license for a PC if its motherboard breaks. However, to take advantage of this exemption, you’ll have to contact Microsoft via the phone activation process. You may have to talk to a representative and explain what you’re doing, or the automated system may just work.

 

Never Allowed: Moving a Preinstalled License to a New PC



When you get a computer that comes with Windows system preinstalled by the manufacturer, the Windows license will always remain tied to that computer.

There’s no exception to this, aside from the exception for replacing the computer’s motherboard if it failed, as discussed above

Manufacturers get these non-transferable licenses for less than you’d pay for a transferable license, hence the restriction.

 

Always Allowed: Moving a “Full Version” or “Retail” License to a New PC



If you buy a “retail” “full version” license–this is generally only something you do if you’re building your own PC, installing Windows on a Mac, or using a virtual machine–you can move always move it to a new PC.

After you move your license several times, Windows may give you an activation error and ask you to call Microsoft to activate your computer. Microsoft’s representatives will allow it. They just want to make sure you aren’t installing the same license on multiple PCs at a time. As long as you only have the product key installed on one PC at a time, you’re good.

 

Maybe Allowed: Moving an “OEM” or “System Builder” License to a New PC



If you built your own computer and purchased a “system builder” or “OEM” license of Windows–which is slightly cheaper than the full retail license–that OEM license is supposed to become tied to the first computer you install it on. Specifically, this license becomes associated with that particular motherboard.

According to the license agreement, you aren’t supposed to install that System Builder license on a new computer. But that’s just what the license says. While your System Builder license will likely fail to activate when you enter the product key on a second computer, there may be a way around this.

After your product key fails, you can choose to activate via other methods and use Microsoft’s automated phone system. We’ve seen reports that this system will often activate the Windows installation for you where a normal product key fails. This isn’t technically allowed according to the license agreement, so it’s not guaranteed. Don’t count on this working! But we’ve heard enough real-world reports to know that this is a possibility.

 

Never Allowed: Moving a Windows 10 Upgrade “Digital Entitlement” to a New PC









if you’ve taken advantage of the free Windows 10 upgrade offer, Microsoft registered your PC’s hardware as having a “digital entitlement“. You don’t actually receive a Windows license key. Instead, when you reinstall Windows 10 on that computer in the future, it will be automatically activated.

There’s no way to move this “digital entitlement” license to a new computer. It’s associated with that particular hardware you upgraded to Windows 10. Yes, even if you upgraded a system that was running a Retail license of Windows 7 or 8.1 that allowed you to move it to other PCs, you can’t move the resulting Windows 10 license to a new PC. However, Microsoft should allow you to reactivate Windows 10 on a PC if you had to replace the motherboard because it was broken. It won’t automatically activate–you’ll have to contact Microsoft and explain you replaced the motherboard because it was broken.

If you want the ability to move a Windows license between PCs as many times as you want–although it can only be installed on one PC at a time–be sure to get the “Retail” or “Full Version” license rather than the cheaper System Builder license. The System Builder license may migrate, but there’s no guarantee, so it’s worth the extra money for a license that’s designed to be moved.

Of course, you don’t actually need a Windows product key to install and use Windows 10.

How to Fix Microsoft Edge Crashing on Windows 10 Build 14942

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If Microsoft Edge keeps crashing every time you open it after installing Windows 10 build 14942, try this workaround to fix it.







Windows 10 build 14942 for PC has been released to Insider through the Fast ring. The new update rolling out is part of the Redstone 2 update and brings some small features, improvements, and fixes.

However, we all know beforehand that installing early versions of Windows 10 from the Fast rings means higher chances of coming across bugs and features not working correctly. A good case and point is the recent Xbox sign-in failure after installing the latest Windows 10 Redstone 2 update, which fortunately Microsoft was able to provide a workaround.

Now on Windows 10 build 14942 a small number of users are reporting that after installing the latest update Microsoft Edge keeps crashing every time they try to open the browser.

While the company hasn't included this particular problem in its list of known issues for Windows 10, a workaround has surfaced that it seems is working for those affected.

 

How to stop Microsoft Edge from crashing at startup

Important: Before proceeding with this guide, you should know that modifying the registry is risky, and it can cause irreversible damage to your installation if you don't do it correctly. It's recommended to make a full backup of your computer before proceeding.
  1. Use the Windows key + R keyboard shortcut to open the Run command, type regedit, and click OK to open the Registry.
  2. Once the Registry opens, you'll notice the new address bar that lets you quickly know where you're in registry, copy and paste the following command in the address bar and press Enter:
    Computer\HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Classes\Local Settings\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\AppContainer\Storage\microsoft.microsoftedge_8wekyb3d8bbwe\Children
  3. Right-click each subkey (subfolder) key and select Delete.

 







  1. Click Yes to confirm the deletion and to complete the task.
Important! Do not delete the Children key, which will prevent Microsoft Edge from starting up, only delete the subkeys.

Once you deleted subkeys manually, you should now be able to launch and use Microsoft Edge on Windows 10 build 14942 without crashes.

How to Gain Administrator Access in Windows Without a Password

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Gaining Administrator access in Windows is easy, and it can be accomplished within a few minutes on Windows 7, Windows 8 and Windows 10. This guide is entirely for educational purpose. Please do not attempt to break Administrator access to a device you do not own unless you have the explicit permission of the owner.



 

Local or Microsoft Account?

The following methods will only work for local accounts. If we use our Microsoft account to log in the PC on Windows 8.1 and Windows 10, we can reset our password through Microsoft.


How to gain administrator access with a Windows Boot DVD/USB

There are a plenty of applications to help us gain administrator access to Windows. If, however, we already have a Windows installation DVD or USB, we don't need any third-party applications, we can use the installation medium to do a clever hack.

Even if we don't have a Windows installation media available, it's easy and legal to download Windows 7, download Windows 8.1 or download Windows 10 from Microsoft website. We can then create a Windows Installation Disc or USB.


We have created this guide using a Windows 10 installation DVD. It should work the same with a Windows 8.1 DVD or USB, but Windows 7 is slightly different, we will point out the differences through the guide.

 

Boot with a Windows DVD/USB

It doesn't matter on which version of Windows we want to gain administrator access; any installation medium will do. A Windows 7 DVD can be used to gain administrator access to Windows 10 and vice versa.

The next step is to change the BIOS or UEFI settings or use a boot menu to boot from the installation medium.


Open the Windows -> System 32 Folder

After we boot from the installation medium, we need to press any key on the keyboard when prompted, to enter the Windows Installation environment.


On the "Install now" screen, we select the "Repair your computer" option.


There, we click on Troubleshoot.


Advanced options.


System Image Recovery.


Don't worry if you have never created a System Image, we won't use this feature to gain administrator access.

We select the target operating system.


Since we don't have a System Image to recover, we cancel the initial prompt.


Then, we click next with "Select a system image".


We click on "Advanced"


Select "Install a driver"


Click OK

By the way, if we used a Windows 7 DVD or USB, we would get the same "Install a driver" option right after we clicked on "Repair your Computer".


That's Microsoft for you, making the simple complex.

The "Load Drivers" button will open a Windows Explorer Window, which will give us access to any and all of the system files.


We just double click "This PC" and then open the Local Disk containing Windows.


If our PC has a System Reserved Partition, the correct Local Disk containing Windows might be D:


Inside the Local Disk, we navigate to Windows -> System32


Modify the proper files

At this point, we need to be careful. If we mess with the wrong files, we could make the Windows installation unbootable.

In the System32 folder, we look for the cmd application. The fastest way to find it is to type "cmd".


We make a copy of the file with Ctrl+C, paste a copy of it with Ctrl+V and then press F5 to refresh. If we did it correctly, we get a "cmd - Copy" file.


After that, we need to find the "Utilman" application and press F2 to rename it.


We rename it to "Utilman 1", "Utilman Bac", or anything else, and confirm with Enter, we must again press F5 to refresh and see the change.

Finally, we go back to "cmd - Copy", press F2 to rename it, change its name to "Utilman" and press F5 to refresh. If we get any error, it probably means that we haven't renamed the original Utilman correctly.


After that, we can reset our PC from the reset button most PC towers have. If it is a laptop, we can press the power button until it shuts down. Don't worry, this will have no adverse effects on your system.

 

Gaining administrator access

We boot from the hard drive to the installed Windows. At the login screen, we click on the Ease of Use icon.


On Windows 7 and Windows 8.1, we will find it on the left side.




The "Ease of Access" panel uses Utilman.exe to run. But since we have replaced Utilman.exe with a cmd.exe file, the Ease of Access button will open the command line. Neat.


Now, to gain administrator access, we the username of an administrator account. We just type:
 
net localgroup Administrators
 
Remember, we can only gain administrator access to a local account. So accounts that also show their email on Windows 8.1 and Windows 10 are off-limits.

In our example, we can gain administrator access only with the PCsteps account, not with my personal Microsoft account.


On Windows 7, where there is no option to log in with a Microsoft account, we won't have such a problem.


Now, the only thing left to do is type:
 
net user (user name) *

If the username is two words, we need to have it inside quotation marks "". The system will prompt us for a new password.


We can leave the new password blank, by just pressing Enter twice, for the password and confirmation.


We now just have to click on the administrator account and Sign in without a password.


And that's it. We have successfully gained Administrator access in Windows.


If we are not using the Ease of Access features, there is no haste to change the system files back.

Whenever we want, we can repeat the process, delete the Utilman CMD executable, and rename the Utilman 1 back to Utilman.

 

How to gain administrator access with Lazesoft "Recover My Password"

An alternative method to gain administrator access to Windows, using Lasesoft's "Recover My Password" software.

Install "Recover My Password"

On another PC than the one we need Administrator access on, we download the latest version of Lazersoft's software from

http://www.lazesoft.com/forgot-windows-admin-password-recovery-freeware.html


The installation is safe; it won't attempt to trick us into installing toolbars, adware, spyware, or browser hijackers.


Create bootable media

After the installation, we run the program and click on "Burn Bootable CD/USB Disk Now!".


We can leave the default "DO NOT Specify the Windows version" option.


The app gives us three choices: immediately burn a CD or DVD, create a bootable USB flash, or create an ISO image to use later. For the example, we will create a bootable USB flash.


The Recover My Password application will first download the WinPE components from Microsoft.


Then, it will ask to format the USB drive. This procedure will delete any files on the USB, so make sure to check before you click on "Yes".


After that, the Lazesoft app will begin creating the bootable drive. It shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes.


Soon, the disk will be ready.


It's best to remove it safely, so we avoid any chance of data corruption.


The Recover My Password bootable environment

Back on the PC where we need administrator access, we must set up the BIOS or UEFI to boot from the bootable medium and boot from the Lazesoft installation media.


We will get a "Windows Boot Manager" screen, where we select the Lazesoft Live CD or Lazesoft Live USB option, depending on the medium.


On the recovery environment, we leave the default "Reset Windows Password" option.


If Lazesoft doesn't recognize our hard drive, we need to download our motherboard's SATA drivers and load them with the Load Drivers button.

The Recover My Password Home Edition is completely free only for non-commercial use, so we have to confirm that we aren't using it in a production environment.


Lazesoft will ask us to select the Windows installation - in case we are multibooting - and will give us the option to reset the local password.


On the next screen, we can select one of the Windows accounts.

As with the Windows Installation DVD / USB method to gain Administrator access, we can't reset the password on a Microsoft Live ID account.


The best course of action is to select the Administrator account, which is disabled by default.


Recover My Password will enable the Administrator account, and reset its password to a blank password.


With this, we are done, and we now have administrator access on the current PC. We just have to reboot the computer.

Remember to remove the bootable media, so the system doesn't reboot back into the Lazesoft environment.


On the next boot, we will find the "Administrator" user.


We just click on it, wait for a couple of seconds for Windows 8.1 or Windows 10 to set up the account.


And we now have administrator access.

We can go to Local Disk (C:) -> Users -> (our main account username) and copy anything from our personal folders and files.






If any of the above mentioned steps didn't work for you as explained, and you are unable to gain administrator access to your Windows installation, please write to us in a comment box and we will give you a workaround.

How to Minimize Your Android Cellular Data Usage and Avoid Overage Charges

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Increasingly sophisticated phones and data-hungry applications make it easier than ever to blow through your cellphone plan’s data cap and incur nasty overage charges. Read on as we show you how to manage your data use.




Just a few short years ago it would have been almost unheard of to blow through multiple GB of mobile data. Now apps have ballooned in size (it’s not uncommon for apps and their updates to exceed 100MB in size), and with streaming music and video becoming more popular, it’s easy to burn through your data cap in a matter of days.

Watching an hour of standard definition streaming video on Netflix or Youtube will readily and easily chew through a gigabyte of data. Bump that stream up to HD, and the data usage basically triples–about three gigabytes of data will be used. Streaming high-quality music over services like Google Play Music or Spotify? You’re looking at about 120MB an hour for that. It may not seem like much at first, but do that for an hour a day for a week and you’re up to 840MB. An hour a day for a month puts you at roughly 3.2GB. If you’re on a 5GB data plan, you just used roughly 65% of it on music alone.

Sure, you could pay more for a bigger plan, but who wants to do that? Before you fork over your hard-earned dollars, here are some tricks for reducing your data usage (and keeping an eye on it).

 

How to Check Your Data Usage

Before anything else, you need to check your data usage. If you don’t know what your typical usage looks like, you have no idea how mildly or severely you need to modify your data consumption patterns.
You can get a rough estimate of your data usage using Sprint, AT&T, or Verizon’s calculators, but the best thing to do is actually check your usage over the past few months.

The easiest way to check past data usage is to log into the web portal of your cellular provider (or check your paper bills) and look at what your data usage is. If you’re routinely coming in way under your data cap, you may wish to contact your provider and see if you can switch to a less expensive data plan. If you’re coming close to the data cap or exceeding it, you will definitely want to keep reading.


You can also check your current month’s usage right from Android. Navigate to Settings > Wireless & Networks > Data Usage. You’ll see a screen that looks something like the first screen here:




If you scroll down, you will see the cellular data usage by app, as seen in the second screenshot above. It’s important to note that these charts only show data sent through your cellular data connection and not your Wi-Fi connection. You might be a YouTube junkie, but if you do all your watching while connected to your home network, it won’t register here. If you want to see your Wi-Fi data usage as well, hit the menu button and select “Show Wi-Fi usage.”


It’s worth mentioning that you will need to specify your billing cycle here for the most accurate look at your data usage. Since your data will reset on the first day of the new cycle, it doesn’t matter what you used the month before, so you don’t want that skewing the results.


In addition to monitoring, you can also set data warnings by adjusting the the slider bar  to your liking—when you reach the amount specified by the cut off limit, you’ll get a warning to let you know where you’re at.


You can also enable the “Set mobile data limit” option, then use the orange slider to specify where you’d like data to be cut off completely. Once you’ve hit that limit, mobile data will be disabled on your phone until you turn it back on.

 

How to Keep Your Data Use in Check

There are two kinds of data sinks when it comes to mobile devices. First, there’s the obvious user-driven data consumption, or “foreground data”. When you watch a high-quality video or download a new album, you’re directly contributing to increasing your data usage for that month, assuming you’re on mobile data and not Wi-Fi.

Obviously, to use less foreground data, you need to consciously stop downloading, streaming, and browsing so much.

Less obvious to most people, though, is the fairly large amount of behind-the-scenes data churning through your connection—the “background data”. Polling for Facebook updates, high-frequency email inbox checks, automatic application updates, and other background activities can put a real dent in your data allotment if you aren’t careful. Let’s take a look at how we can curtail some of this.

 

Limit Background Data, App by App

You can limit background data one of three ways: total blackout, individual blackout, or app-based settings.
First, let’s investigate which apps are actually generating notable amounts of background data. Head back to Settings > Wireless & Networks > Data Usage to see your apps, in order of data usage. You can tap on individual applications to see a more detailed view.  Here we can see the foreground and background usage:



If possible, go back to your home screen and open the app in question. See if it has any settings designed to restrict data usage. Rather than use Android to restrict Facebook’s data use, for example, you can jump into the Facebook app and turn down the frequency of push notifications or turn them off altogether. Not only does turning off notifications and constant polling cut down on your data use but it’s great for extending your battery life.


Not every app will have these kind of settings, however–or have as fine-tooth control as you wish. So, there’s another option.

Head back to Settings > Wireless & Networks > Data Usage and tap on an app. Check the box labeled “Restrict Background Data” (in Nougat, this is just a switch called “Background Data”, which you’ll want to turn off instead of on). This will limit its data usage from the operating system level. Note that this only applies to a mobile data connection–if you’re on Wi-Fi, Android will allow the app to use background data normally.



Turn Off All Background Data

If that isn’t enough, you can also turn off all background data with the flip of one switch—this reduces your data usage in most instances, but it can also be inconvenient as it doesn’t differentiate between data sippers and data hogs. From the Data Usage menu you can press the menu button and check “Restrict Background Data”. This will turn off background data for all applications.


Turn Off Background App Updates

Google realizes how precious your mobile data is, so app updates–which could arguably use up more of your data than anything else–will only happen automatically when you’re on Wi-Fi, at least by default. To make sure this is the case (and that you didn’t change it somewhere down the line), head into the Play Store and open the menu. Jump into Settings, then make sure “Auto-update apps” is set to “Auto-update over Wi-Fi only.”

 
A quick note before we continue: as we talk about restricting background data usage, we want to make it very clear that these restrictions only apply to your mobile data usage; even if you heavily restrict an application it will still function normally when you are on Wi-Fi.

 

Purchase Your Favorite Apps (to Remove Ads)

Often, apps well offer a free version with ads, and a paid version that is ad-free. Developers need to eat so you can pay them with ad revenue or cold hard cash. Here’s the thing: ads aren’t just annoying, but they use up data too. These upgrades can cost anywhere from $0.99 to a few bucks, and are easily well worth the cash if you use the app often.

 

Use Chrome’s Data Saver

If you surf the web a lot on your phone, Google Chrome’s “Data Saver” mode can make it less of a blow to your data cap. Basically, it routes all of your traffic through a proxy run by Google that compresses the data before sending it your phone. Basically, this not only results in lower data usage, but also makes pages load faster. It’s a win-win.

You were likely asked to enable Data Saver the first time you loaded Chrome, but if you decided not to do it at the time, you can enable it after the fact by opening Chrome, jumping into Settings > Data Saver, and sliding the toggle to “On”.


Cache Google Maps Data

The best way to avoid sucking down huge chunks of data while you’re out and about (and dependent on cellular data) is to cache it ahead of time when you’re basking in the glory of a wide open Wi-Fi connection.

If you’re using Google Maps for daily navigation or trip planning, you’re sucking down a lot of data. Rather than use the live updating version, you can pre-cache your route (and save a ton of mobile data usage in the process). Next time you’re planning on doing some heavy Maps use, open up Maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, open the menu, and select “Offline areas.” From there, you can either tap “Home” to download maps near your house, or tap “Custom Area” to download maps for any other areas you’re going to be travelling to soon.




Use Streaming Apps with Offline Modes

Many streaming service apps are adding offline modes—modes that allow users to pre-cache data while on Wi-Fi to use when on their cellular data connections. Rdio, Rhapsody, Slacker Radio, and Spotify all have offline modes to help users avoid hitting their data caps.

 

Data Caching Is Your Friend

There are a lot of other areas you can cache data, too. Always be thinking about how you can offload your data usage to Wi-Fi before you’re out and about.

For example, we know this is so 2003, but there’s something to be said for downloading your music, podcasts, ebooks and other media to your device from the comfort of your home (and Wi-Fi connection).

In addition, don’t use task killers. At this point you shouldn’t be using a task killer in the first place, but if you are, stop now. Not only are they of dubious usefulness (and we strongly recommend against using them), but most task killers will also dump the cache files of applications they are busily killing off—which means when you go to use the app again you’ll need to download the data all over.

You can apply a few of our suggestions or all of them depending on your needs and how much you need to curtail your data usage—either way, with a little careful management it’s possible to go from skirting your data-cap every month to saving money by switching to a smaller plan with very little effort.

What Are Layers and Masks in Adobe Photoshop?

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Photoshop can be confusing. It’s a massive program with countless tools and techniques. However, it’s not the advanced stuff that throws most people, but the very basics. As soon as you start using Photoshop, you’ll probably need to use Layers and Layer Masks. If you don’t wrap your head around them, you’ll never be able to get much further.




So, let’s take a look at what Layers and Layer Masks are, and how to use them to edit your photos.

 

What Are Layers?

Photoshop is built on the idea of layers and the layer stack. Everything you do in Photoshop takes place on a layer. All the layers in a document are arranged one on top of the other. Whatever is on the layer at the top of the stack appears above the content on all the Layers below.

The easiest way to think of it is to imagine you’re a kid again making a collage in school. You start with a white background sheet, cut some pictures out from a magazine and stick them to the page. Maybe you grab a marker and add write something on top. All your materials are physically layered. You can take a picture from the bottom of the pile and move it to the top. Or you can take something from the top and move it to the background. The only difference with Photoshop, obviously, is that the layers are digital.

 

Getting Started With Layers

Layers are surprisingly simple once you’ve grasped the basic concept. Let’s move away from metaphors and look at an actual Photoshop document.


The new document in the image above has only the single white-filled layer Photoshop adds to all new documents. To add a new layer to your documents at any time, click the New Layer button or use the keyboard shortcut Control-Shift-N (Command-Shift-N on a Mac).


I’ve added a second layer to the example document; this time it’s a black square.


In Photoshop, each layer works independently. What gets saved out as the final image is the sum total of all the layers working together. The little eyeball next to each layer controls whether or not it’s visible. To turn a layer on or off, click on the eyeball. In the image below, I’ve turned off Layer 0, the white background.


The checkerboard pattern is Photoshop’s way of showing that an area is completely empty. The white layer is filled with white pixels so, although it might look blank, it really isn’t. Other than the black square, there is nothing else on the second layer. If you were to export this as an image that supports transparency–like a PNG–the checkerboard area would be transparent.

I’ve added a pink circle on a third layer. It’s at the top of the layer stack, so it appears above the black square and the white background.


When I move it below the black square’s layer, it gets covered by the content on the layer above. Whatever layer is on top is going to appear on top, even if it covers up things below. To move a layer to a different position in the stack, Click and Drag it around the Layer Panel.


Layer Opacity

Layers aren’t always fully visible or completely switched off; they can also have some transparency. In Photoshop, you can set the Layer Opacity to anywhere between 0% and 100%. Its visibility will be reduced to that amount.

In the example below, the pink circle layer is set to an Opacity of 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100%. Look at how the image changes with the layer’s opacity. Photoshop combines all the information from the visible layers to get the final result. At 50% opacity, it’s taking information from both the pink circle and black square layers.


To adjust the opacity of a layer, enter a value of between 0 and 100 for the Opacity or Click and Drag on the number to use a slider to set it.

 

Layer Masks

Layers on their own can’t do much. It’s rare that you want to just place things on top of each other in Photoshop. Normally, you want to combine different parts of different layers to create the final image. This is where Layer Masks come in.

A layer mask selectively controls the visibility of the different areas of each layer. Each layer mask only affects the layer it’s attached to. Areas of the layer mask that are black conceal the respective area on the original layer, while areas of the layer mask that are white reveal those areas of the original layer. Just remember “black conceals and white reveals”.


To create a new layer mask, select the layer you want to mask and then click the Add Layer Mask button. By default it will be filled with white. If you want to start with a black layer mask, hold down Alt or Option when you create it.

In the image below, I’ve added a new layer mask to the pink circle layer. It’s white, so it doesn’t affect the layer.


When mask is black, it conceals the pink circle even though the layer is still on.


The real power of layer masks is that they let you control different areas independently. In the example below, I’ve added a white square to the layer mask. Only the area of the pink circle that intersects with square is visible in the image. It looks like there are two square layers rather than a square and a circle.


Masks can also be used to add transparency. You don’t have to just use black and white, you can also use gray—the layer’s opacity will be reduced by that amount. I’ve added a 50% gray square around the edge of the white square to the layer mask. The image now looks like there’s a pink square, surrounded by a dark pink circle, sitting in a black square.

This is a bit of an abstract example, but it can be really useful in photos. For example, you can use layer masks to remove the background of a photo completely, which is very cool.

 

Working With Layer Masks

You can work on a layer mask with any of the regular Photoshop tools. The only difference is that layer masks are grayscale, so you can’t add colors.

To modify a layer mask, select it. You’re then free to add black, white, or any shade of gray with the tool of your choice. Photographers do a lot of work with the Brush tool, while in this article, I’ve used the Marquee tool to create all my masks.

To leave a layer on while turning the layer mask off, right click on the mask and select Disable Layer Mask. You can also select Delete Layer Mask to get rid of it entirely.





Masks are one of the most important tools in Photoshop. You’ll use them in every project. Below, you can see a mask from one of my own images. I’m using it to selectively brighten the model, while keeping the background dark. It was painted with the Brush tool.


Skype For Linux Alpha 1.10 Released With One-on-One Video Calls Support

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Microsoft today released a new update of Skype for Linux users. Skype for Linux Alpha 1.10 finally comes with support for video calls.
But, don’t get too excited. This is an experimental version and the 1-on-1 video calls work only between Skype for Linux Alpha clients for now. With this release, Skype team is also disabling some older version of Skype for Linux Alpha (1.1 – 1.6). Those users will have to update to latest version to enjoy their Skype experience. You can download Skype for Linux Alpha DEB here and Skype for Linux Alpha RPM here.

How to Add Pie Controls to Your Android Phone

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If you’ve never used pie controls on your Android device before, you’re missing out. Pie controls are a unique way of quickly accessing your navigation keys and other shortcuts that don’t take up any space on your screen — you simply swipe in from the side to bring them up.




These controls have long been a staple of some custom ROMs and Xposed modules for years, but you don’t need to go through the hassle of rooting to get them–you can just download an app from the Play Store. This is especially useful if your physical navigation keys are broken or you just want a quick way of accessing your apps from any screen.

 

How to Install and Set Up Pie Control

First, download and install Pie Control from the Google Play Store. It will open with a prompt telling you how to enable it, but you can check the “Do not show” box and hit OK.

 

From here, enable the pie controls with the switch in the upper right. You can choose where you want to be able to swipe in from–the left, right, bottom, or any of the corners. If you have software navigation keys, swiping from the bottom can be a little tricky, so I recommend one of the other options.

 

The little settings buttons next to each switch allow you to adjust the position and size of each of the sections. To actually adjust what appears in the pie  controls, you’ll want to swipe over to the Edge or Corner tab.

 

In the free version, you’ll only have access to Levels 1 and 2 for the Edge pie control–adding a third layer of buttons requires an in-app purchase of $2.90 to get the premium version (which also removes ads and opens Levels 2 and 3 for the Corner pie control). Granted, having three rows of apps and shortcuts is probably overkill for most folks.

 

Here you can also adjust other options, like removing the persistent notification or tweaking some of the visuals. You can even use custom icons packs to make the pie controls match your launcher setup.

 

If none of the changes seem to be taking effect, remember to tap the little check mark icon in the lower right to activate them. Each slot in the pie controls can have two apps or shortcuts: one for a normal tap, and one for a long press.

 

The folders tab is pretty limited in the free version because it only allows you to have a single folder, which by default is filled with Google apps. Thankfully, you can rename this folder and add whatever apps, tools, or shortcuts you want.

 

Using Pie Control

Now that you’re all set up, it’s time to put the controls into action. From any app or screen, you should be able to swipe in from your chosen section and let go on whichever option you want. To long press, just hold your finger on the option until it activates.

 
By default, the side pie controls have two levels that are for toggling settings and switching apps, while the corner pie controls are for your navigation keys: Home, Back, and Recent. This, of course, can be customized to your liking.

 

With the battery percentage, date and time, and easy-to-access controls all there, you barely need your status bar or navigation bar at all. It can make your Android experience much faster and more fluid once you get used to them.

 

A Simpler Alternative

The Pie Control app is super customizable, but it might seem intimidating to someone who just wants an easy navigation bar replacement. For something a bit simpler but less functional, try downloading Simple Pie from the Google Play Store.

Simple Pie ditches the app shortcuts in favor of an easier interface with only three tabs along the top.





The little navigation bar-style pie controls that it pops up are still fully customizable–you can even make them comically large, and choose from a selection of built-in custom icons.

 

Which app you’ll want will depend on your needs. For a more full-featured option, take Pie Controls, and for a simple option, take Simple Pie.

 

A Note on Permissions

Because these apps work in the background and overlay themselves over all your other apps, they need special permissions. Pie Controls gives you one of two options: You can deal with a persistent notification in the notification bar, so that you know it’s always running–and you won’t run into any permissions issues. If you want to disable the notification, it will prompt you to enable the screen overlay permission in the settings–just note that this can sometimes cause problems with other apps.

Simple Pie doesn’t have the persistent notification action, so your only choice is to give it screen overlay permissions. It will prompt you to give it the necessary permissions immediately upon opening the app. Again, if you see a “Screen Overlay Detected” error in the future, Simple Pie is probably what’s causing it–you can read more about screen overlay permissions and errors here.

Both of these apps are a nice introduction to the world of pie controls. Being able to swipe in from any screen and access things in an instant is such a treat; once you get used to it, you’ll wonder how you ever got around your phone without it.
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